A new version of PeepThat is on the way!

By April Kosky

London Fashion Week AW18 Round Up


Fortie Label

 

Featuring a diverse line up of models, the small collection presented by Fortie Label was everything we love. Metallic organza jumpsuits and floor length fur coats with trainers and over-the-knee boots? We’re in. The colour palette was neutral; mainly browns, bronze, black and white let the design do the talking. Oversized hoops and micro sunglasses on some of the models kept the collection up-to-date, while understated brown eye makeup and dewy skin matched the colours perfectly. The first model to walk the runway, bare-chested under a fur coat no less, who’s pink hair matched his pink trainers, scattered 100-dollar bills from a black hold-all as he walked. Overall, the collection spoke of a opulence inspired by the streets.

 

Richard Malone

 

A key part of Richard Malone’s designs is his commitment to sustainability and ethical production. He didn’t shout this from the rooftops during his AW18 show though – his designs say more than enough. Explaining in his press release that his inspiration came from his upbringing in a working-class community where “young men are at once fiercely protective, and deeply terrified of their mothers,” he has always had to respect what women are like. His grandmother, another inspiration, was guest of honour, which explains the headscarf worn by some of the models. Blue, red and green were the stars of the show, and models walked the runway bare-faced apart from a touch of dark reddy-brown lipstick. Our highlight – the forest green overcoat worn over a green and white plaid jumpsuit.

 

Supriya Lele

 

As part of the Fashion East AW18 offering, Supriya Lele continued to impress. Her clothes were the most wearable of all the designers, and we want them all. Taking inspiration from Helmut Lang tailoring, she deftly used her Indian heritage to show who she is. Traditional Indian-style jewellery was paired with very contemporary design, but the Indian influences were clear throughout. The yellow checked fabric seen in this collection bought the clothes to life - we're big fans of the sheer midi dress layered over a neon bralet and Sari-style trousers.  Supriya, we love you. 

 

Halpern 

 

Halpern AW18 was a technicolour, dazzling dream. His designs have become hugely popular with the fash-pack, especially after Adwoa Aboah wore a jumpsuit of his to the London Fashion Awards in December. One of his inspirations for the show was rebellion against Trump – he was designing the collection during “Trump’s move to ban transgender people in the military” and thought “Holy shit!” Similarly to Ashish, Halpern uses sequins as a method of escapism. Metallic zebra print featured heavily in his collection, on jumpsuits, tops and skirts, and almost everything was sparkling in some way. Reminiscent of the 80s, each model wore oversize square hoops, and the hemlines were high. If we could have one piece, it would be the red sequin polo neck paired with half-red, half-zebra print sequin trousers. Yes please.

 

David Koma

 

Black and white, with flashes of vibrant red and purple, David Koma’s AW18 collection was as bold as ever. Leather featured heavily among the clothes, including a dress, an overcoat, separates and gloves. Round silver embellishments featured on many of the garments and were mirrored with the circular belts cinching the waist of many of the models. As always, Koma’s collection flashed a lot of skin, not just through micro-length skirts, but through interesting cut-outs and sheer fabrics. Silver strappy sandals and black shin-length and knee-high boots accented the powerful clothes perfectly. Perfect for the forthcoming party seasons.

 

Asai 

 

Shown under the Fashion East banner for the third season in a row, A Sai Ta continued to use the relationship between his Chinese-Vietnamese heritage and London as an inspiration. In his show notes, he mentioned the word ‘assimilation’, and this idea was clear throughout the show. Fringes, on boots, trousers and jackets were a big part of his collection, and we are here for it. As seen on many other catwalks this season, Western-style detailing was out in full force. The jeans that turned into black fringed boots were our favourite. A jewellery collaboration with Alan Crocetti gave A Sai Ta some silver edge in the form of body chains, earrings and nose rings. The beauty was even more enticing; with the nail art complimenting each piece in the collection, think tartan nails, silver talons (on hands and feet) embellished with a dragon design; the artist Sylvie Macmillan is definitely on our talent to watch list! Lattice knits were made wearable in the form of parka coats and oversized jumpers.  Although it was only his third season, A Sai Ta already has a lot to offer. 

 

All image credit Vogue.com


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